Making Sense of French Cheese and Wine Pairings

While France is not the literal birthplace of the wine and cheese pairing, it is certainly the first place most of associate with the classic juxtaposition between our beloved vin and fromage. With few things as instantly gratifying as spending a night at home, popping a cork and breaking out the cheese knife, making sense of cheese and wine pairings can be mind boggling, even for those with a passion... So, here are some suggestions that are sure to enlighten your palate and help you emerge victorious from your next visit to the local cheese monger and/or your favorite specialty wine shop:

Goat Cheeses

The phrase “pur chėvre” identifies a French cheese made from pure goat milk. The classic mate for this Loire Valley delicacy is Sancerre, a 100% Sauvignon Blanc that is crisp and racy with acidity and minerality. Sancerre most often resembles New World and New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, however the Val de Loire winemakers ferment their wines at a higher temperature, so the end result highlights the briskness of the wine’s mineral aspects without the pungent grapefruit notes. Cutting through the layers of richness to cleanse the palate in an ethereally harmonious way, Sancerre and goat cheese is an enjoyably assertive and classic couple.  Suggestions: Reverdy Sancerre ($23) or Domaine Rossignole Sancerre ($20)

Soft, Mild Cheeses

Cheeses such as Port-Salut and Brie favor a mild, soft red.  When choosing a mate for these cheeses, think Beaujolais or a younger and less-oaky Pinot Noir.  Although often difficult to find, a cru Beaujolais from Fleurie makes a fine pairing with its intensely floral aspects and acidic crispness. Suggestions: Chateau de la Chaize Brouilly Beaujolais ($12), Saint Martin Marsannay Pinot Noir ($25)

Double or Triple-Cream Cheeses

Requiring more than 60% butter fat, double and triple-cream cheeses (such as the widely-available Camembert) can be easily enjoyed with red wines that carry some acidity. A Cabernet Franc from the Loire appellation Chinon would be delightful, but if you are looking for the “meant to be” match try a Rosé Champagne. Suggestions: Demoiselle Brut Rosé Champagne ($51), Lucien Albrecht Cremant Rosé

Blue-Veined Cheeses

Blue cheeses, like Bleu d’Auvegne or Fourme d’Ambert, are a natural pairing for sweet wines and port. Producing a harmonious tangy sweet and sour effect, this pairing is one of the true wonders of the wine and cheese world. Sauternes, a sticky white dessert wine from Bordeaux, is created by a noble rot of grapes affected by river mist and is a perfect match. Yet, if dessert wines just aren’t your thing, a nice red Cotes du Rhone completes a divine duo. Suggestions: Castelnau de Suduiraut Sauternes 2003 ($22), St-Cosme Cotes du Rhone Rouge ($14)